Manufacture of textile fabrics



Patented Jan. 18, 1927.

UNITED STATES HENRY DREYFUS, OF LONDON, ENGLAND.-

muracrunn or TEXTILE FABRICS.

No Drawing. Application filed April 9, 1924, Serial No. 705,405, and in Great Britaln September 4,'1828.-

This invention relates to the manufacture of fabrics consisting wholly or partly of artificial yarns or threads hereinafter referred to as yarns of reconstituted cellulose, such a as those consisting of denitrated nitrocellulose 'or made from viscose solutions, or from \cuprammon'ium-cellulose solutions or solutions of cellulose in other solvents. The object of the invention is to produce fabrics of this character presenting new or improvd crepe effects.

As is well known, permanent crepe effects on fabrics made with yarns of natural silk, are obtained by employing highly twisted 16 silk yarns in the gummed state in weaving the fabric, and subsequently boiling off wholly or partly thesilk gum, which usually constitutes about 20-25 per cent ofthe weight of the silk fibre, and drying, the

20 crepe effect being thus obtained. Usually ,it is only weft yarns which are highly twisted, but in some cases both weft and warp yarns having a. high twist are employed. In most cases one employs both r1 ht hand twisted arns and left hand twisted yarns in 't e fabric in order to obtain a flat 1 'ng fabric; for example right hand twiste weft yarns may alternate with l left hand twisted weft arns in the fabric or be woven in other desired relation thereto.

It has now been found'that fabrics presenting new or improved permanent crepe effects can be obtained with yarns of recon' stituted cellulose such as referred to. 5 For this purpose according to the invention the arns of reconstituted cellulose used to give t e crepe effect are provided with a rotective coating or dressin (hereinafter -1ncluded in the term coating of a colloid substance before receiving the high or relativelyhigh twist (hereinafter for brevity included 1n the term high twist) the protective coating being subsequently wholly or partially removed from said yar is in the woven fabric, after the weavin opera-tion the operation of removing said coating may with advantage at the same time serve as the cre ing wetting.

The sai coating may consist of any suitable colloidal materials. For example one may treat or impregnate the said yarns or threads with boiled-off liquor or with solutionsor preparations containin gums, gelatine, starch, glucose, so-called. sizes or sizing preparations, especially those consist- ,partly 0 other material. The warp may consist of yarns of reconstituted cellulose, or of arns of other material or materials, or pa y of the crepe effect weft arns, but in some cases a coating ordress' ing of or capable of leaving on the yarns a coating of aplastic or semi-plastic character consisting for example of starch, gluco'se and oil, or with mixtures of or containing any of the foregoing, or with any other suitable dressings or preparations. I weave fabrics with weft yarns of such coated or dressed highly or relatively highly twisted yarns and'I afterwards remove the coating wholl or partly from the said yarns by treating t e fabric with boilin or hot water or soap solutions or with 0t er suitable baths or other suitable means.

-This operation of removing the coating preferably serves as the wettin treatment of the crping operation the fa rics being subsequently dried, usually under stentering or like tension in order .to secure the ri ht width of the crepe efi'ect fabric. It is un er-.. stood, however, that a separate creping wetting treatment may be applied to the fabrics after removal of the protective coating or dressing from the yarns provided therewith, and generally that any known or suitable baths or wetting means may be employed for the purpose or an other suitable means may -be applied for e eating the creping shrinkage.

The weft ma consist wholly\ of the highly or relatively highly twisted and coats or dressed arns of reconstituted cellulose, or

f such yarns and partly of yarns of yarns of reconstituted cellulose and partly of yarns of other material or materials.

The warp threads will usually be of relatively low twist or. much lower twist than highly twisted or re atively highly twisted warp threads may 'be employed. When warp yarns of reconstituted cellulose are employed these may likewise be provided with such as referred to.

The "high or re atively highl twisted coated weft yarns of r'econstitute cellulose may of course .be employed-throughout the fabric or-only at desired parts thereof according to whether the crepe efl'ecth to be obtained with them shall extend generally over the fabric or only appear at parts. -The weaving may iii-fact be generally similar to that practised in 'making fabrics with er- I manent crepe effects, and the crepe-e ectvor other crpes by the known methods, but

any other suitable high or relatively high twist may be employed.

1 The crepe effect may be more or less pronounced or of any desired degree, according to the number of twists given to the yarns and to the degree of shrinkage. Also any desired deniers of threads or yarns may be i .used, as for instance 30, 45, 50, 60, 100, 150,

200 and more. High deniers may in particular be used with preference for fabrics such as crpe marocain. It is also to be understood that the deniers employed may consist of a single end or be built up of two or more ends to make the total denier.

In the latter case the ends may be separately coated or dressed before bein twisted together or before receiving the igh or, relatively high twist.

The'yarns of,reconstituted cellulose employed for the purposes of the invention will usually be composed of continuous filaments, though in some cases they may be spun from sholrt length or chappe fibres of this mater1a It is to be understood as before indicated that two or more ends of reconstituted cellulose may be twisted together with a high or relatively high twist for use as crepe producing weft yarns.

In carrying'out the invention, according to one. example, to make a crepe fabric of 45 denier for instance, I may take a 45 denier yarn of reconstituted cellulose such as that made from viscose or cuprammonium cellulose and treat or impregnate it with boiled off liquor or other suitable sizing,

*dressing or preparation of a suitable concentration so as to applyf or leave on the yarn the desired amount 0 coating or solid material, for instance an amount about corresponding to that of the gum on natural silk, for example about 2025..per cent or any desired less or greater amount, for instance between 5 and 20 per cent or 25-30 per cent or more, or even as low as between about 1 and 5 per cent. The yarn, dried if required, is given a'suitably high twist, for instance a twist of between 44 and 86 turns per inch, or more or less than this, and is woven as weft into a fabric with warp yarns of re-' constituted cellulose or other material, of the same denier as the weft threads, but of an ordinary degree of twist or of lower twist than said weft, for example of about 5 tfirns per inch. The warp yarn employed may or may not be coated or dressed similarly to the weft. The woven fabric is then heated with water or in a soap bath or treated with diastofor or any other suitable bath to remove the coating or dressing from the yarns and is dried under tension, and a fabric is thus obtained presenting the permanent crepe effect.

It is of course understood that the foregoing example is given only by way of illustration and can be varied widely.

It is understood that the number of weft yarns employed in carrying out the invention should not be too great relatively to the number of warp yarns,-= as otherwise the crping effect obtained after the shrinkage may be prejudiced. F or this reason the number of weft yarns per inch counted lengthwise of the fabric should be substantially less than the number of warp yarns per inch counted transversely of the fabric. For instance with a fabric of 180 warp yarns per inch one may use about 40 to 80 weft threads per inch, it being of course understood that any other suitablenumbersthan these may be employed.

What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. Process for the production of yarns for use in the manufacture of -crepe fabrics, comprising-applying a protective coating of colloid substance to yarn composed of reconstituted cellulose, and twisting said coated yarn with a high twist.

2. In a process for the manufacture of crepe effect fabrics, the employment of high twist weft yarns of reconstituted cellulose having a protective coating of colloid substance applied to them prior to receiving the high twist.

3. In a process for the manufacture offabric presenting a permanent crepe effect, weaving a fabric with high twist weft'yarns of reconstituted cellulose having a protective coating of colloid substance applied to them prior to receiving the high twist, and subse-.

quently removing the coating at least partially from'the yarns in the woven fabric.

4. In a process for the manufacture of fabric presenting a permanent crepe effect, weaving a fabric comprising high twist weft yarns of reconstituted cellulose having a protective coating of colloid substance applied to' them prior to receiving the high twist, and subsequently removing the coating at least partially from said yarns in the woven fabric by treatment of the fabric with a liquid capable of dissolving off the coating. 5. In a process for the manufacture of fabric presenting a permanent crepe effect, weaving a fabric with high twist weft yarns of reco stituted cellulose having a protective coating-of colloid substance applied to them prior to receiving the high twist, and subs'equently removing the coating at least artially from said yarns in the wovenfa ric by treatment of the fabric with a hot aqueous liquid.

-6. In a process for the manufacture of fabric presenting a permanent crepe effect, Weaving a fabric with high twist weft yarns of reconstituted cellulose having a protective coating of colloid substance applied to them prior to receiving the high twist, and subjecting the woven fabric to wetting and drying.

7. In a process for the manufacture of fabric presenting a permanent crepe efi'ect, weaving a fabric with high twist weft yarns of reconstituted cellulose having a protective coating of colloid substance applied to them prior to receiving the high twist, and subsequently removing the coating at least partially fromsaid yarns in the woven fabric by treatment of the fabric with an aqueous liquid said treatment likewise serving as wetting treatment for the crping, and drying the fabric.

8. In a process for the manufacture of fabric presenting a ermanent crepe effect, weaving a fabric with hi h twist weft yarns of reconstituted cellulose avinga rotective coating of colloid substance applie to them prior to receiving the high twist, treatin the woven fabric with a hot aqueous liqui whereby said coating is at least partiall removed from said coated high twist we t yarns, said treatment likewise serving as wetting treatment for the creping, and drying the fabric.

9. As new products applicable for the manufacture of crepe fabrics, high twist yarns of reconstituted cellulose, said yarns comprising a protective coating of colloid substance.

10. As new products, woven fabrics comprising high twist weft yarns of reconstituted cellulose and presenting a permanent crepe effect.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto subscribed my name.

HENRY DREYFUS. 

